I was lucky enough to visit The Frog by Adam Handling with my work colleagues on a rare night out last week. It was so good that I just have to tell you about.
First impressions of the restaurant itself were that it was a bit of an odd space, and a bit sparse. We were warmly greeted but the cloakroom unfortunately felt a bit temporary. But then we spotted Adam on the pass, and all we could look at was him and the decor was forgotten.
We quickly ordered a cocktail. For me it was an Adam’s Apple, which is the frog gin, pink apple cordial and calvados served with a gorgeous mini toffee apple on the side. A bit sweet (for me) but delicious and the sourness of the apple helped offset some of the sweetness. We all agreed on the five course tasting menu and accompanying wines. We also ordered an extra helping of the now famous cheese doughnuts – a must!
First to arrive were the ‘snacks’ or as my colleague calls them, the shnicky shnacks. Wow.
We started with the most delicious crispy cylinder filled with soft velvety smoked cod, topped with caviar and beautifully presented. Then came the beef tartar which was my favourite and the tastiest tartar I have ever eaten. The final snack was smoking mussels, literally served with smoke pouring from them and flavoured with lemon and sherry vinegar. Amazing, and a real touch of theatre. Of course these snacks were additions to the five courses, we hadn’t even started yet!
Next came the bread and butter – this is not your ordinary bread and butter but the most amazing sour dough and soft butter flavoured with crispy chicken skin with the most delicious morsels of crispy chicken skin on the top. So good we had to ask for more butter (diet was on hold this evening). With this and the snacks, if I ate nothing else ever again, I would have been very happy.
We were finally ready to start our five courses; first up and delivered by a lovely chef was the ‘Celeriac, date, lime, truffle’. This was the perfect start as it was light, fresh and delicious. Next up was the ‘BBQ mackerel, potato, apple’, another beautifully presented dish with really smokey notes from the mackerel. We washed this down with a fruity little Spanish white.
Our third starter was the ‘Cod Prawn Cocktail’, the Frog’s take on a classic. The cod was perfectly cooked served with a lightly cooked piece of cos lettuce on top still with a nice crunch. I wish I had saved some of my bread for this one to mop up some of the delicious sauce. The Australian Riesling served alongside was the perfect accompaniment. All three dishes presented and delivered by the chef who had prepared each one, such a lovely personal touch.
It was finally time for the main course of ‘Pork, cauliflower, kimchi’ and wow what a dish. The pork served pink and the cauliflower lightly roasted. The kimchi was a revelation and really bought the dish together. I could quite easily have eaten another portion. We were served a Romanian Pinot Noir with this dish was perfectly light and complimentary to the pork.
Our additional course of cheese doughnuts came next. These have become the must try in any of Adam Handling’s restaurants and rightly so. Soft doughnuts with melting rich cheese in the centre topped with truffle shavings. What’s not to like?
The finale (or so we thought) was pudding which was the one course we had to pre-select. I went with the ‘Caramelised apple, vanilla, salted peanuts’ and was not disappointed. In fact I think I chose the best. We of course made sure we had all four puddings covered on the table so we could try them all.
We ended the evening with a few very well made cocktails in the basement bar which I highly recommend you do, an Old Fashioned being my drink of choice. The sugar coated doughnuts filled with rhubarb were the final treat in what was one of the best meals / experiences I have had in a long time.
I will be back and be sure to have my husband Sam with me next time, he will love it.
Frog by Adam Handling KATER Score 10/10 – £140 for one inc. service