Seville – time for tapas

We love visiting Spain, and usually find ourselves around Malaga as we have friends who live nearby. This time we decided to meet up somewhere different so via Airbnb we booked a beautiful town house in the centre of Seville with a roof top pool – much needed in the 40-degree heat. We stayed for a week whilst they joined us for a long weekend.

Seville is packed full of tapas restaurants, ranging from traditional to modern in style. We were literally spoilt for choice, so after a bit of research (thanks to TripAdvisor) we decided we’d take a chance and book a food tour with Azahar Food Tours (KATER Score 8/10 – €65 pp) Not something we have done before, but friends had recommended that we try it, so we thought why not. We also decided that as we would be eating our way around Seville and with this blog in mind, we would mark each tapas bar out of ten as we went around. Here goes.

Our tour was made up of our tour guide, a local girl who taught English by day, a lone American guy, myself and Sam which was great, as a big group wouldn’t have been the same.

We started in the main square by the Cathedral and headed to the oldest Tapas restaurant in Seville, Casa Morales (KATER Score 8/10 – inc. in tour) They have been serving up local wines, sherries and tapas for over 150 years. We enjoyed a glass of sherry to pair with our manchego cheese, venison chorizo, jamón and salted cod – it was all absolutely delicious and a great start to our tour.

Seville - Jul 17 (06)
Jamón, Venison Chorizo and Manchego from Casa Morales

We then had a short stroll towards the Alcázar of Seville (Royal Palace where they filmed Game of Thrones) to Casa Roman (KATER Score 7/10 – inc. in tour) where we were warmly greeted by the owner and ushered to a table. It felt like a proper local spot, with no other tourists in sight. Pork cheeks, mushrooms with salsa verde, salt cod and pork cuts, chips and gravy were promptly served and washed down with some delicious local red wine.

We ended the tour in a modern style tapas bar called Viniera San Telmo (KATER Score 5/10 – inc. in tour) which had a great atmosphere and a promise of something exciting. We ordered some gambas, squid ink spaghetti with crab, beef carpaccio and lemon meringue pie. Unfortunately, it was all a little style over substance for me and I found it all a bit bland.

Overall I would recommend a food tour to anyone on a city break, it was a great introduction to Seville, our tour guide was full of interesting facts and advice plus it gave us a chance to get our bearings for the next few days of tapas grazing.

Over the next few days we visited:

  • Bar Catedral (KATER Score 8/10 – €12 for two inc. service) Smack bang in the tourist area so didn’t expect too much but surprisingly good pig cheeks and artichoke salad
  • Baratillo (KATER Score 7/10 – €15 for two inc. service) Delicious Russian salad, roasted peppers with mackerel and some Jamon
  • Bartolomea (KATER Score 7/10 – €30 for two inc. service) A modern looking tapas restaurant in the Arenal district but unfortunately the sous vide squid let this down as it was overcooked. However, the mushroom and cheese risotto was gorgeous
  • Postiguillo (KATER Score 6/10 – €20 for two inc. service) In the Arenal district we had a quick stop here to break up the walk and enjoyed some Jamon, fois gras and manchego – average
  • Petite Comite (KATER Score 8/10 – €25 for two inc. service) A great find where we sampled some local croquettes, potato salad, pork cheeks and artichokes with Jamon
  • Bar Kiko De La Chari (KATER Score 9/10 – €10 for two inc. service) This place doesn’t look like much as it is literally a whole in the wall with a couple of aluminium tables and chairs in an alley way BUT wow do they do a good meatball! We also sampled their ‘potaje de garbonzos’ (chickpea stew) which was delicious – definitely recommend seeking out this place
  • Sal Gorda (KATER Score 10/10 – €35 for two inc. service) This was our absolute favourite tapas restaurant, we went their twice, taking our friends when they arrived. Over near Alfalfa plaza, a less touristy spot in Seville we enjoyed seabass with spiced noodles, tuna tartare, pig cheeks with creamed potato, lamb shoulder, prawns in a yuzu dressing finished off with a selection of local goats cheeses. Everything was beautifully presented and was delicious – an absolute must when visiting Seville.
  • Las Teresas (KATER Score 9/10 – €10  for two inc. service)  This is the place to go for your jamón fix. Traditionally cut jamón, using a just a knife and no ham stand you are greeted with a ceiling of hanging meats. The jamón was melt in your mouth and the best we had all week. A busy hang out for the locals but a definite stop off for anyone visiting Seville.

We were lucky enough to visit the Triana area on a day where they were celebrating La Vela de Santa Ana, a festival dedicated to the mother of Virgin Mary. This basically meant all the locals took to the street and pop up bars and tapas spots were spread all along Calle Batis. We stopped off for a beer and enjoyed some pulpo a la gallega (freshly cooked octopus) which was a real treat. I’m not an octopus lover normally but this was something else, sprinkled with some smoked paprika and olive oil, so simple yet delicious.

Seville was absolutely fabulous, the food, the culture and the company was just perfect – I would go back in a heart beat although maybe not in July (too hot)!